After a very hectic and social 2009 I felt a strange urge to start the new year in a remote location, far away from crowded city bars or house parties at friends' homes. So I suggested, much to Vaughan's surprise, that we walk the full length of the Queen Charlotte Track instead! The reason for Vaughan's bewilderment is that I can't really be called a fit person by any stretch of the imagination, and that given a choice I'll always pick city over nature. Well, maybe old age is starting to catch up with me but I now find myself actually craving regular breaks full of silence, solitude and wide vistas. So on 30 December we set off on the 71-km track in the spectacular Marlborough Sounds, passing through lush native bush, around coves and inlets and along skyline ridges with unsurpassed views down into the Queen Charlotte and Kenepuru Sounds. 
As I'm a creature of comfort we didn't take the tent to camp along the route, but instead stayed in a few stunning lodges and two fantastic hostels. This was supposed to be a holiday after all ;-). Still, 90% of the food we had was self-catered so we were roughing it to some extent... Overall summary of the experience? Mind-blowing scenery, excellent company and (mostly) great weather made this a truly amazing trip, but five days was certainly enough of an antidote to the non-stop frenziness of daily life (I was getting a bit restless by day four!). Also, I'm seemingly incapable of recognising the songs of Tui or Bellbirds and can't differentiate between a rimu and a beech tree, and that's ok :-).
As I'm a creature of comfort we didn't take the tent to camp along the route, but instead stayed in a few stunning lodges and two fantastic hostels. This was supposed to be a holiday after all ;-). Still, 90% of the food we had was self-catered so we were roughing it to some extent... Overall summary of the experience? Mind-blowing scenery, excellent company and (mostly) great weather made this a truly amazing trip, but five days was certainly enough of an antidote to the non-stop frenziness of daily life (I was getting a bit restless by day four!). Also, I'm seemingly incapable of recognising the songs of Tui or Bellbirds and can't differentiate between a rimu and a beech tree, and that's ok :-). 
Day 1 - 71 km to go!
Our first view: Ship Cove where Captain Cook landed many times in the 1770s
All along the track you run into Weka's, flightless native NZ birds that have obviously been fed by passing walkers. I find them really endearing, despite some of them having a rather staunch attitude (see photo below)!
More jaw-dropping views on days 2 and 3
Me getting overexcited at 8am on day 3
The end of the track couldn't come soon enough on day 4 as it poured down for most of the day & I kept slipping on the muddy path. The relief to see this sign was palpable, but I also felt a flicker of pride. Hoorah, I did it - my longest walk ever!
The unexpected reward for our efforts was the delightful hamlet of Anakiwa, where we soaked our tired muscles in the spa of the local YHA and explored the waterfront the next morning.
Icing on the cake: a scenic (yet very bumpy!) flight over the vineyards of Blenheim accross the Cook Strait back to Wellington. 
3 comments:
oohh! nu begint het echt wel eens te kriebelen om helemaal terug naar Nieuw-Zeeland te reizen!
stief wel merci voor alle fijne schrijfsels!
tiens, ze maken automatisch future... van mijn naam, 't was dus Sylvie. Maar Korneel heeft een account van the future dead. lieve groet
Ohhh, I used to live at Woodbourne, on the airforce base there. I guess you flew out from my airport ;-) and Anakiwa, my dog and I used to run away from home and spend hours there in the bay, just being alone and happy ... ohhhhhhhhhhhhh memories.
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