The Big Smoke

I just got back from a long weekend in Nairobi and think that its nickname of 'Nairobbery' really needs to be replaced by 'The Big Smoke'. If I thought that LA, Tokyo or Marakech were polluted then I hadn't inhaled anything as cough-inducing as the air of Kenya's biggest city. After spending many hours stuck in cars, matatus or taxis during Nairobi's never-ending traffic jams, my skin got inevitably coated in a layer of black grime, my lungs were stinging and unblocking my nose resulted in VERY dusty tissues. Still, putting up with all this congestion was worth it since I got to catch up with one of my ex-NZAID students and his lovely family. When Richard left NZ in 2009 he gave me his Kenyan phone number and mentioned I should get in touch if I ever passed through Nairobi. Who would have thought that within a year I would take him up on his offer! It was wonderful to meet him in his own environment and to get to know his wife Quin and three daughters a bit better. I did experience a bit of culture shock though, because they live in a middle-class neighbourhood and have comforts that the IDPs at Pipeline can't even dream of. Even after only 5 weeks here even I considered their indoor toilet, hot shower and microwave a luxury. It goes to show how quickly your perceptions change...

When Richard and Quin picked me up in the city centre they did some grocery shopping in Nairobi's City Council market, a place I instantly loved for its local vibe and bustling atmosphere.

As Quin passed by her regular butcher I realised that I hadn't eaten any meat since arriving here (a few grizzly pieces of goat don't count). The menu at our host family consists mostly of beans, lentils, veggies and carbs and at the IDP camp the high cost of meat is of course prohibitive. So when Quin bought 15 kilos worth of red meat for her freezer I almost found it decadent, despite the fact that at home we regularly eat steak and mince!

My generous host eating a fresh fruit salad at the market

Saturdays at the Juma house are spent cooking so I instantly got given a few (minor) duties, like stirring the beef stew and making sure the ugali was cooked to perfection. Anyone who has ever been to East Africa will understand that ugali, the staple starch, is a religion upon itself so it must be treated with the utmost respect and care. My favorite part came when I had the chance to make mandazi, a type of fried doughnut that is very popular here as breakfast or snack. I'm known for having a real sweet tooth so this job couldn't have suited me better! Richard's two youngest daughters kept an eye on the proceedings :-).

The end result

Outside in the courtyard Quin's sister Sarah was preparing something a lot less appetising - cow's intestines (tripe). The raw product really didn't appeal to me at all, but when I tried it as a cooked dish (called matumbo) a day later, it was actually quite tasty.

Most Kenyans attend church on Sundays and the Juma family is no exception. I tried to put on my tidiest outifit but oldest daughter Rebekah and I paled next to Quin's dazzling ensemble! After church we all headed to a local hotel for a refreshing drink - Del Monte mango juice, anyone ;-)? Richard isn't a fan of having his photo taken so this is the best shot I could get.

Next on the Sunday agenda was a visit to the nearby swimming pool, where the entrance fee of 200 Shillings (= NZD 4) is enough to make an IDP family eat for several days. I loved seeing Tessy (4) enjoy herself but my mind kept wandering back to the kids at camp, and how they entertain themselves with plastic bottles and footballs made of string & paper. A day at the pool is simply inconceivable to them, yet to these middle-class Kenyan children it's a weekly pleasure. I'm not sure yet how to reconcile these feelings because being there made me somehow sad...

At night we welcomed two more visitors: my friends and fellow IDP volunteers Nina and Deidre. They had just finished a safari trip and were overwhelmed by Quin's sumptuous dinner offerings!