As a theatre student back in Belgium one of my professors introduced our class to kabuki, a traditional Japanese theatre form. I was immediately fascinated by this highly stylised performing art that combines acting, dancing, and music in an extraordinary spectacle. Little did I suspect that I would ever be visiting Japan, let alone have the opportunity to witness an authentic kabuki performance! But yesterday Yasuko and I, both very excited, took a trip to Hakataza Theater to watch Meiboku Sendai Hagi or 'The Troubles in the Date Clan'. When we arrived around noon the theatre was almost completely full, which I found quite surprising. It turns out that kabuki is the most popular of the traditional styles of Japanese drama and its star actors often appear in tv and film roles. 
Some kabuki actors even have the great honour of being called a Living National Treasure, waw! One of these is Sakata Tojuro (photo), the big star of this kabuki festival in Fukuoka and a well-known onnagata (performer of women's roles). Kabuki's current respectability is quite ironic if you look at the origins of the art, because it started out in 1600 as subversive popular entertainment for the merchant classes, with frequent brawls and general rawdiness. This subsided a bit when the original female actresses were first replaced by young boys -to protect public morality!- and later on by mature men. Until the Meiji Restoration in 1868 though, despite the more refined character of kabuki, the actors were seen as social outcasts & were often referred to as "beggars of the riverbed."
Some kabuki actors even have the great honour of being called a Living National Treasure, waw! One of these is Sakata Tojuro (photo), the big star of this kabuki festival in Fukuoka and a well-known onnagata (performer of women's roles). Kabuki's current respectability is quite ironic if you look at the origins of the art, because it started out in 1600 as subversive popular entertainment for the merchant classes, with frequent brawls and general rawdiness. This subsided a bit when the original female actresses were first replaced by young boys -to protect public morality!- and later on by mature men. Until the Meiji Restoration in 1868 though, despite the more refined character of kabuki, the actors were seen as social outcasts & were often referred to as "beggars of the riverbed." 
The 90-minute play was unlike any other performance I've ever seen. Even though I could understand very little, the flamboyant costumes, elaborate makeup, and exaggerated body movements really drew me into the story. Many elements still felt unusual and exotic to me, like the slow pace and the male performances of female parts. Seeing 74-year-old acting legend Sakata Tojuro play the grieving mother to his/her murdered son was surprisingly moving though, even if he makes a very unattractive woman! If I could afford it, I'd go see every single kabuki performance in town, it's really an entrancing experience. Note to self: save up big and bring a set of binoculars next time (poor students like me sit on the balcony a mile from the stage...)!
A cheerful Yasuko after the performance
Another side of Japan: modern pop culture-icon Hello Kitty goes kabuki!
1 comment:
I went to a noh performance. It was spectacular to look at but for me a bit like going to the opera - after the first few minutes your looking a) for a way to leave gracefully or b) an unobtrusive and comfortable place to sleep. Still as you say it's something you need to do when you're in Japan but I'll take a sumo tournament anytime.
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